Burns

Products you will need: 

Kryolan Bruise Wheel 

Would Filler 

Fake Blood 

Stippling sponge 

Steps: 

1. Use the bruise wheel to create a dark looking bruise using a stippling sponge blending out the edges as you go. 

2. Next Add some wound filler to the area focusing on the dark scarred area

3. Pat on the fake blood in small quantities as you want it to appear that the skin is burnt and not just cut. 

Facechart Designs

 Miss Havisham Designs 

Estella Designs 

List of Products

List of Make-up Products:

Kryolan Viva Colour Medley palette
Mac Cool Neutral Pallet
Kryolan Aqua Colour
Kryolan Ultra Foundation Pallet
Kryolan Supracolour
Kryolan blusher pallet
Kryolan Glamour Glow pallet
Illamasqua Loose Powder
Dermacolour camouflage mini pallet
Lip rouge mini palette
Mac Shine gel
Kryolan Rainbow circle black eyes/body makeup
Haute and Naughty waterproof lash
Latex
Wound filler
Fake Blood
Dirt Spray
Glycerin

List of Tools:

Sponges
Stippling Sponges
Steel Palette
Mixing Palette
Spatula
Brushes
Brush Belt

List of Hair Products:

Pintail Comb
Paddle Brush
Hand brush
Dollshead
Afrocomb
Sectioning Clips
Round Bristle Brush
Hairspray
Hair tongs
Hair Grips
Cape

American Horror Story

In our hair lesson with Lottie with learnt how to create 3 different hairstyles from one set. 

hairstyle 1 - The maid from AHS 

hairstyle 2 - volumous and structured

hairstyle 3 - Big messy curls 

Make the parting slightly off centre to create 3 curls on one side and 2 on the other. Take a section on either side of the head curling it under and pulling the hair upwards to create lift and to ensure that the curls sit perfectly on the section line. Gently move the tongue out when the curl is ready and pop a grip in to keep it in place until it cools. 

Once the front is curled focus on the back sectioning it into a brick work formation so one curl, two curls, one curl, three curls then another three and pin into place. The curls at the sides of the head need to be taken towards the face but creating lift by pulling outwards. 

Remove the cooled curls and pin into place at the front of the head into little pin curls and twist the back into a roll at the back of the neck. The curls should have lift so you'll have good volume at the back of the head. 

For the second look remove the pins and gently use a paddle brush to brush the head combing underneath creating a sleek volumous look.

For the final look take the dolls head and turn it upside down and shake vigorously and once done you will be left with a tousled voluminous curly look! 

Creating Estella

Here are the photos of my Estella look, and also the official studio images, I'm quite glad with how the makeup looked on camera however I think I could make the colours darker so they show up on camera more effectively.

Estella Hair

Here was my first practice for my Estella design on my model Hannah. I decided to do something similar to my Miss Havisham but instead put all of the hair up and curled. 

 This was my final look for my Estella hair design, I added a lace and pearl piece of fabric and pinned it into place as I thought of this design as Estella on her wedding day.

Dark eyes and dark Lips

Inspired by Pat McGrath's creation in 2010 for John Galliano, in class I recreated this look with a few minor tweeks but feel as if I captured a true likeness to this look. 

John Galliano wanted the faces to look like an old trip to hollywood with dramatic signatures such as curled lashes and pencil thin brows which was my favourite thing to recreate! The models were styled with feathers, pearls, laces and colour sprayed flowers. One of my favourite looks was a look shown in the picture below where the model appears to be wearing a wig cap with gold sparkly tape to hold it in place. They all represent an older time in glamorous hollywood that we can only see through classic film and photographs and I feel that Galliano and Pat Mcgrath did this era justice.  

 This was my chosen look and I made a few changes, for example instead of using silver I used gold in the corners of the eyes and on the cupid's bow. The colour on the eyes was taken up to the brow but not as dark and that's something I would have liked to have done looking back at the photos now.

This look has given me inspiration in the creating of my 'Claudia' character for my new project, 

I plan on creating something very similar as one of my Claudia designs. In my mind Claudia likes to see herself as a doll-like girl but similar to this Pat McGrath look shows a sadness and vulnerability. 

As she loves horror I plan on making her look a little more theatrical and over the top. 

My next design will be an adaptation of this design as Claudia likes to change her appearance regularly for dramatic effect.  

Moulded Scars

What you will need:

• Mould
• Petrolease Spray
• Vaseline
• Prosaide
• Pro-clean remover 
• Witch Hazel 
• Supracolour
• May need barrier cream if model has sensitive skin 
• Fixing Spray 
• Powder

1. Apply prosaide to clean skin and prosthetic and wait until the glue goes clear as it will appear white when first applied.

2. Once the glue is clear press prosthetic firmly onto the skin and hold.

3. Using witch hazel and a baby bud, apply around the edges of the prosthetic to melt down and make them appear less visible on the skin. 

4. Once the edges have been blended, powder the prosthetic and start applying the appropriate colour using supracolour making it look as realistic as possible, 

5. Once all the colour is applied use the fixing spray to set the colour on the prosthetic, 

6. To remove the prosthetic, peel off the prosthetic and lightly apply and rub on some Pro-clean remover to remove the remaining glue on the skin. 

Tip: If you want to make the wound look fresh and more realistic add some fake blood and also you may wish to use some vaseline to make the skin appear swollen and weeping. I applied wound filler into my scar to give the illusion of a deep cut and I find that this keeps it looking life-like and new, 

Miss Havisham Make-up Practice

This is my first solution to creating my Miss Havisham design with my facechart below and my first attempt at creating it on myself above. I've decided I'm going to slightly change my design my changing the lip colour to a slightly more natural bluey purpley toned shade and add duo glue to make the model's lips appear dry and flaky as miss havisham's lips would after keeping herself locked away from the world for so long. The lashes and brows will be grey instead of black and red eyeliner will be used in the waterline of the model's eye to give the appearance of sore and tired eyes.

Miss Havisham Hair Design Practice

I had the opportunity to practice my design on Sylwia Mazur in class to determine what I would have to adapt and perhaps change for the assessment day. My model that I would be using on the day also has very long hair so it gave me a chance to visualize my final idea. 

In the top image you can see that I've put half of the hair up in a band and curled it. I then looped the hair into a bun shape but not a perfect bun shape as this was not a victorian hairstyle. The curls have then been taken up into the the bun shape and left to hang at the back of the head with the front section curled and pinned back also and parts left down onto the face. I was so pleased with the outcome of this practice! 

Rashes, Dry Skin, Pale Palour

Products you will need:

Duo Glue or Old age stipple for dry skin
Kryolan coloured hairspray for dirtying down hands
Tear stick for watery eyes
Water Spray
Tuplast
Sponges
Fullers Earth
Vaseline
Translucent Powder
Tooth Enamel
Dry Soap for dandruff
Dry Shampoo to age hair and dry hair
Brill Cream for greasy hair
Glycerine for sweat

Dirtying Hands

• Moisturise the hands thoroughly 
• Ask the model to bend the knuckles to ensure you can apply the products all over the hands
• Use the coloured hairspray to dirty the hands using different colours such as dark brown, black, light brown etc.
• Rub the product into the hands and powder
• Spray on some water to move the products around on the skin until you have the desired effect

Rashes 

• Use your Supracolour palette and flick a dark or light red onto the model's face being careful of clothing and also of the eyes so ask your model to close them. 
• Powder the skin afterwards to make it appear as if the rash is coming from within and is part of the skin
• If you wish to create freckles use a light or dark brown colour to flick onto the face,

Pale Palour

• Pale down the skin not using the a white base but with a lighter shade with slight colour,
• Pat some duo glue onto the lips, ask the model to keep their mouth closed.
• Pat some duo glue also onto the skin with your fingers and allow to dry.
• For the eyes use a sepia brown or a bluey (tired) colour around the eyes, you could also use red eye drops or a red eye pencil in the waterline to add to the look.
• Rub away the duo glue on the skin and on the lips and it should come away as if the skin were peeling. Add red to the skin for the skin to appear sore. 

Cuts, Bruising and old Scars

Products you will need and could use:

• Wax - plasto or cinewax/moulding wax
• Latex
• Tuplast - creates old scarring
• Collidion 
• Bruise Palette - Old and New
• Wound Filler 
• Fake Blood
• Selaer 
• Old Age Stipple
• Pus
• Duo Glue 
• Spatulas
• Fixing Spray 
• Barrier Cream 
• Vaseline - for black eye
• Cotton Buds
• Sponges
• Mixing palette

1. Cover your model as latex can stain and damage clothing

2. Mould wax on back of hand to soften and warm the product.

3, Apply to desired area and blend edges to make it look like it's part of the body.

4. Make sure the edges are blended keeping a bit of height in the centre for your cut.

Cover wound with latex making sure the edges are blended well as when its dry you dont want the latex or wax to show on the skin as this will ruin the effect.

5. Dry latex with cool setting 

6. Use spatula to cut the centre to make the cut 

7. Fill the cut with wound filler, fake blood etc.

8. Add pus 

9. Use bruise wheel or supracolour palette to make the surrounding skin appear damaged.

Bruising 

1. Depending on what stage the bruise you are recreating is at you'll need to use the correct colours and the placing of the colours is very important. 

2. Use the bruise wheel very lightly as the colours are very strongly pigmented so using less is more as it makes it appear more realistic and you can build the colours. 

3. Vaseline can also be added to make the bruise appear new and sore.

Old Scars

1. Rub barrier cream onto the area 

2. Paint the area with collodion (remember that collodion is very strong so if near eyes or mouth be very cautious).

3. Bend the skin in the direction of the scar, hold and dry on cool setting of hair dryer. 

4. Build up the layers and dry again.

5. After a couple of layers the scar should appear.

6. You can also add some colour that would be suitable for old scarring.

Ageing

Products you will need 

• Orange stipple sponges 
• Black stipple sponges
• Old age stipple
• Barrier cream
• Grease based paint
• Fixing Spray
• Kryolan tooth enamel
• Cheap Brushes for latex
• Spatula

1. Start by using some barrier cream on the area that you want to age to create a base for the makeup.

2. Next ask your model to smile and crease their face to determine where you are going to apply the makeup in he lines that would naturally occur over time. 

3. Decide on the colours you wish to use depending on your model and use a small thin brush to apply the product blending well and not using too much product (you want it to look as natural as possible). 

4. To age the eyebrows you can use a grease based paint, either white or grey and make them look quite wild and overgrown if thats the look you're going for.

5. Don't forget to age the neck and always check in the mirror and take a picture to see how it appears on camera.

To age the teeth:

1. Wipe the desired teeth dry and use a cotton bud to apply the Kryolan tooth enamel telling your model to keep their mouth open as the product dries to prevent smudging. 

To age the skin using Old Age Stipple:

1. Use barrier on whereever you want to age

2. Shake latex well before using, pour a little amount into a bowl 

3. Stipple the latex on in a thin layer

4. Stretch the skin so the skin wrinkles when it's released

5. Break up the latex's edges by feathering the latex on the skin

6. Use the hair dryer on a cool setting to dry the area (remember to move the hair dryer side to side to prevent the latex from running of the skin)

7. Make sure that each layer is dry before you add another 

8. Release the skin and move the skin around a bit to add the desired wrinkled effect.